Nadège Vanhée presented Hermès' fall/winter 2026 ready-to-wear collection on the fifth day of Paris Fashion Week, transforming a vast Garde Républicaine building into an enchanted forest maze bathed in blue twilight. The show delved into the 'liminal realm' between day and night, blending modernism, femininity, utility, romance, and quiet mystery as confident urban women embarked on nocturnal adventures.
Held during Paris Fashion Week in early March 2026, the Hermès show drew inspiration from the moonlit enchanted forest and shifting twilight horizons. Creative director Nadège Vanhée described the concept as a 'liminal realm' of transition, change, and movement, with light and shadow play enhancing the runway's twisty maze amid mossy landscapes under a recreated dark blue sky.
The color palette evolved from sunset's warm hues through deep reds and a green flash to earthy browns, mossy greens, subtle yellows, corn yellow, burgundy, and midnight blacks and grays. Equestrian heritage was evident in sharply tailored coats cinched with chain belts, jodhpurs, thigh-high riding boots suited for the saddle or walking, and spiraling zippers on leather pieces for adjustable, aerodynamic silhouettes.
Rebellious and practical designs included leather biker shorts, full-length leather dresses, multi-pocket bomber jackets, military-style four-pocket soft leather coats, salopettes for trekking, and quilted skirts and jackets in rich blood-red tones with motorcycle padding. A-line leather miniskirts paired with layered shirts, ties, sweaters over turtlenecks or pointy collars, and colored tights evoked 1960s freedom. Removable shearling collars on jackets and coats, a bright lemon meringue shearling jacket, and a blue fur-collared silk scarf cape added versatility for twilight chills.
Accessories highlighted black Cossack hats, thigh-high flat-heeled boots, and updated iconic handbags like the Birkin and Kelly, gliding through the moonlit stage. The collection's standout print—a cloud-dotted sky beyond an abstract tower by Art Deco artist A.M. Cassandre—adorned a zip-front shirtdress with knit sleeves.
Vanhée emphasized female agency: 'You can conceal and be absolutely sexy... It’s about revealing and concealing. It’s definitely a tandem.' She dressed 'strong women who can take control, walk in the night and chart new territory,' fusing the house's craftsmanship with contemporary edge, poetry, and practicality for versatile modern wardrobes. Looking ahead, Vanhée anticipates Hermès' haute couture launch next year.
