In the latest Sunday Morning Showdown from Fratello Watches, the Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival goes head-to-head against the Aquastar Deepstar II. Both retro-inspired dive watches draw from 1960s designs, blending vintage aesthetics with modern specifications. Contributors Jorg and Mike present their cases for each model, highlighting differences in style, wearability, and features.
The Sunday Morning Showdown features two dive watches that revive classic styles from the 1960s. The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival updates the original Deep Blue model from 1964. It has a 39mm stainless steel case, 13.24mm thickness, and 48mm lug-to-lug distance. Water resistance reaches 300 meters, up from 200 meters in the vintage version. Priced at €2,600, it includes a gray sunburst dial with elongated indexes at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, a date window at 4:30, and an applied logo between 10 and 11 o'clock. The countdown bezel uses a sapphire insert with white numerals and a beige luminous triangle at 60 minutes. Powered by the La Joux-Perret G100-based FLD01 caliber, it offers a 68-hour power reserve and 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Jorg favors the Deep Raider Revival for its daily wear appeal. "The Deep Raider Revival feels better. Its finishing is more elaborate and detailed, and the bracelet is nicer," he writes. He notes the five-row bracelet with a butterfly clasp outperforms the Aquastar's in refinement. The movement provides a practical edge over competitors with shorter reserves.
The Aquastar Deepstar II, debuted in 2021, reinterprets the 1960s Deepstar Chronograph as a time-only watch. Measuring 36.7mm by 47mm and 13mm thick, it has a stainless steel skin diver case and 200 meters water resistance. Available in colors like gray, blue, white, and green, it costs €2,335 or €1,922.80 with bracelet excluding VAT. It uses a Sellita SW290-1 movement with 38-hour power reserve and features a no-decompression bezel and sub-seconds dial.
Mike praises its wrist fit and aesthetics. "What I’ve always enjoyed about the Deepstar II is its fit on the wrist and general aesthetics," he states. He emphasizes its original concept and cult appeal, distinguishing it from direct reissues. The beads-of-rice bracelet option adds solidity.
Readers' comments reflect divided opinions. Some criticize the Favre Leuba's 4:30 date window alignment and dial layout, while others appreciate the Aquastar's color options and history. Last week's showdown saw the Cartier Tank à Guichets win 55% against the Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour.