Demna Gvasalia presented his first runway show for Gucci on February 27, 2026, at Milan Fashion Week, blending the brand's heritage with sensual, body-conscious designs inspired by Tom Ford's era and Sandro Botticelli's Primavera. The collection, titled Primavera, featured a diverse cast of models including Kate Moss and emerging digital influencers, set against a museum-like backdrop with Roman statue replicas. Front-row celebrities like Demi Moore and Paris Hilton witnessed looks emphasizing emotion over intellect, with some pieces available for immediate purchase.
The show took place at Palazzo delle Scintille, transformed into a museum evoking the Uffizi Galleries with replicas of Roman sculptures. Demna, who joined Gucci as creative director nearly a year ago after helming Balenciaga and Vetements, drew from the archives, particularly Tom Ford's tenure from 1996 to 2004, known for raunch and refinement. He described Gucci as 'a person' with a 'wild, unforgettable past and unmistakable codes,' aiming for designs that trigger emotion.
Opening with a seamless white minidress clinging to the body, the 83-look collection shifted to buff male models in muscle-revealing T-shirts and slim trousers, evoking Renaissance ideals. Women wore ultra-mini dresses, skinny jeans, and floral pleated gowns inspired by Botticelli's Primavera, alongside nods to Alessandro Michele's era like furry Princetown slippers. Accessories dominated, including updated Bamboo 1947 bags, the new Manhattan sneaker, and horsebit loafers.
Kate Moss closed the show in a glittering black gown revealing a diamond-encrusted GG thong, prompting an audible crowd reaction. Emerging models like Vivian Wilson, Alex Consani, Nettspend, and Fakemink brought digital It-kid energy; Fakemink paused to check his phone mid-runway. Demna instructed models to exaggerate their personalities, creating theatrical moments.
Front-row attendees included Demi Moore with her dog Pilaf, Paris and Nicky Hilton, Donatella Versace, Alessandro Michele, Shawn Mendes, and Romeo Beckham. Reactions were positive: Kering CEO Luca de Meo noted 'a lot of codes that are typically recognizable' and 'courage coming back.' Vogue's Chloe Malle praised Demna's theatrical understanding, while Nordstrom's Rickie De Sole highlighted the 'sexy segue into Gucci’s next chapter.'
Gucci, Kering's largest brand contributing 40% of sales, has seen revenues halve to €6 billion in 2025 amid industry recession since Michele's 2022 departure. Demna's vision seeks to revive it through pragmatic yet emotional products, with select items available see-now-buy-now in stores and online.
