Milan-based label Sa Su Phi, founded by Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco, unveiled its sophomore ready-to-wear show for fall 2026 at Fondazione Giangiacomo Feltrinelli. The collection, titled 'The Architecture of Femininity,' explores the balance between structure and fluidity in women's fashion. The brand has gained attention from celebrities including Meryl Streep.
Sa Su Phi, a women-led fashion label from Milan, staged its second show on Friday afternoon at Fondazione Giangiacomo Feltrinelli, overlooking Viale Pasubio. The event bathed the space in sunlight as a large curtain was drawn back at the start, emphasizing designs suited for day-to-night wear. Founders Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco, both in their 50s, established the brand in 2021 after growing frustrated with clothing choices that pitted power against comfort. Today, Sa Su Phi boasts 100 stockists worldwide and endorsements from figures like Elle Fanning, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Meryl Streep, who appeared in the brand's Lauren wool coat in the trailer for The Devil Wears Prada 2 released recently. The fall 2026 collection, 'The Architecture of Femininity,' delves into womanhood's contrasts through innovative construction and materials. Pieces include armor-like tabards in soft pastel yellow cashmere and padded hips on full-length cashmere skirts. Ferrero explained, “Even if the structure is protective, it enhances the fluidity and the beauty of the body. This is very much the language we wanted to speak.” Practical elements define the line, such as elastane in jackets to maintain shape during movement. Ferrero's background as an investment banker in 1990s London and later CEO roles at Furla, Joseph, and Valextra informs the brand's focus on professional attire. Cucco, through her agency Cucco Studio, has worked with Prada, Max Mara, and Loro Piana. While often associated with quiet luxury, this show incorporated bolder touches: liquid-gold and mercury gowns, silk blouses paired with structured gray skirt suits, plum knits over blue silk, and silver glitter cashmere with khaki culottes. Ferrero noted, “Thinking about the woman that we’re describing, sometimes you have to do what you have to do to fill the room, and actually, to be honest, something like this [gold trouser], I would wear it to go to work. Minimal or not, I don’t really think about it. I think about my friends and what they want to wear and how they want to feel. It’s a question of attitude.” The collection starts from the tactile feel of cashmere and silk, prioritizing both aesthetics and functionality for working women.
