Belgian designer Meryll Rogge unveiled her first collection as Marni's creative director during Milan Fashion Week on February 26, 2026. The show returned the brand to its foundational codes established by founder Consuelo Castiglioni, emphasizing wearability and subtle references to archival pieces. Industry reactions praised the modern reinterpretation of Marni's quirky, anti-glamour aesthetic.
Marni, founded in Milan in 1994 by Gianni and Consuelo Castiglioni, has seen several creative evolutions since OTB Group acquired a majority stake in 2012. Francesco Risso served as creative director from 2016 until his exit in June 2025, during which the brand received critical acclaim but faced commercial challenges amid a luxury market slowdown. OTB reported a 5% sales decline for fiscal 2025, with Marni's growth lagging behind sister brands like Diesel and Maison Margiela. In May 2025, Stefano Rosso was appointed CEO of Marni to steer its direction.
Meryll Rogge, a 2025 Andam Prize winner known for her eponymous label launched in 2020 and prior roles at Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten, was selected as the new creative director. Rogge, a longtime Marni admirer, drew from the brand's archives, particularly early collections from the mid-1990s that featured muted tones like white, black, brown, and gray, with a focus on materials and shapes rather than prints or embellishments. "I’ve been a Marni fan since I was a teenager; it has truly shaped my vision of fashion," she said.
The fall 2026 ready-to-wear collection, presented on February 26, 2026, in Milan, highlighted proportions inspired by 1990s pieces, such as fitted shoulders, nipped waists, and low-hip skirts. Elements included patterned knitwear, contrasting separates, embellished skirts, sporty outerwear, hardware details, shearling and goat fur textures, stripes, large disc dots, and graphic florals. Rogge aimed for everyday wearability: "It was important to bring the [brand] back to real life again." The soundtrack featured "Here’s to Life" by Shirley Horn, and casting by Piergiorgio del Moro featured models like Matilde Lucidi, Betsy Gaghan, and Libby Bennett.
Reactions were positive. OTB's Renzo Rosso noted, "It’s exactly what I think everybody was expecting from her — to take the codes of the house and reinterpret them in a modern way." Eva Chen of Meta praised Rogge for tapping into Consuelo's world while adding her stamp, creating timeless pieces. Alex Kessler of i-D highlighted the eclectic mix and the power of a woman at the helm. Jack Moss of Wallpaper described it as a return to Marni's origins with strong menswear elements. Carlo Capasa of Camera della Moda Italiana called it a beautiful interpretation that brought strong energy to Milan Fashion Week.
