Pieter Mulier unveiled his last collection for Alaïa during Paris Fashion Week, marking the end of his tenure as artistic director. The Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show featured fitted silhouettes and neutral tones, reflecting the house's couture heritage. Mulier will join Versace in July 2026.
Pieter Mulier, appointed artistic director of Alaïa in 2021, presented his final runway show for the house on March 6, 2026, as part of Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Paris Fashion Week. The Belgian designer, known for his rigor and focus on garment construction, succeeded founder Azzedine Alaïa, who died in 2017. Mulier maintained the brand's couture identity while guiding it into a contemporary era through collections emphasizing fabrics and cuts.
In January 2026, Versace announced Mulier's appointment to lead its collections, making this Alaïa show his farewell. Held at the former Fondation Cartier, the event included large screens displaying portraits of atelier members by photographer Keizo Kitajima. The invitation featured a DIY leather pattern of a female bust, symbolizing the craftsmanship behind the designs.
The collection shifted from Alaïa's typical vibrant colors and surreal volumes to simpler, bodycon pieces. Form-fitting dresses and jackets in black, brown, and deep purple highlighted tailoring mastery, with no accessories to distract from the garments. In show notes, Mulier stated: “Stripped-back, reduced to the very essence of Alaïa. It is a reflection both on and through Azzedine’s work, marked by traces of myself. The passing of my time here.”
Mulier's architectural background and past collaboration with Raf Simons shaped his minimal approach. His successor at Alaïa remains unnamed, but the show underscored his legacy of precise, standalone designs.
