Omega has launched the Constellation Observatory collection, reviving elements from its 1952 flagship line with vintage-inspired designs and advanced certification technology. The time-only watches feature pie-pan dials and are available in steel, Moonshine Gold, Sedna Gold, and platinum. Prices start at CHF 8,500 for steel models.
Omega, based in Bienne, Switzerland, unveiled the new Constellation Observatory watches on March 26, drawing inspiration from the original 1952 collection that succeeded the brand's 1948 Centenary models. These chronometer-certified pieces reference the precision contests at Neuchâtel and Geneva Observatories, where Omega excelled before quartz movements ended the events in the late 1960s. Each case back bears eight stars and an observatory dome, a tradition since 1952 commemorating those victories. In 1964, Omega produced 63.2% of all chronometer-certified wristwatches worldwide. The watches revive 1950s features like pie-pan dials with 12 grooved facets, dauphine-style hands, kite-shaped 18K gold or platinum-gold indexes, and dog-leg lugs first seen on 1960 Constellation references. Cases measure 39.4mm in diameter, 47.2mm lug-to-lug, and 12.23mm thick. Lacking a seconds hand, they use Omega's Dual Metric Technology at the 2023-opened Laboratoire de Précision for Master Chronometer certification per ISO 3159 and METAS standards. This acoustic system tests 10 watches simultaneously over 25 days, measuring ticks, temperature, positions, and magnetic fields for 0 to +5 seconds daily deviation. Movements include the 8914 for steel models and 8915 variants for precious metals, offering 60-hour power reserves. Steel versions on O-Megasteel or leather straps start at CHF 8,500 (excluding VAT), €10,700 (including VAT), or US$10,900 (excluding tax), with a black ceramic dial at CHF 9,500. The reviewed Moonshine Gold model on green alligator leather retails for CHF 29,500, €37,300, or US$37,900. A full Moonshine Gold with brick-motif mesh bracelet is also offered. Fratello Watches' RJ noted the 39.4mm size suits 18cm wrists comfortably at 96.4 grams, though some found it large. Enthusiast reactions highlight praise for the dials and rotors but criticize the size, 12.2mm thickness, absent seconds hand, and pricing compared to vintage alternatives or competitors like Patek Philippe Calatrava.