Shanghai Fashion Week for fall/winter 2026 concluded with Glenn Martens' Maison Margiela runway show, marking a confident phase for Chinese fashion amid economic challenges. Designers moved away from minimalism toward expressive femininity, romanticism, and cultural nuance, with bold trends like animal prints and vibrant pinks dominating runways. Buyers placed disciplined orders, while livestream sales exceeded RMB 20 million.
Shanghai Fashion Week FW26 closed on a high note with Glenn Martens presenting both ready-to-wear and Artisanal collections for Maison Margiela. The event coincided with four exhibitions across China highlighting the house's founding codes, such as the 'bianchetto' motif and philosophy of anonymity. Martens emphasized craftsmanship, saying, 'We love clothes and garments. We don’t want to focus on the person wearing it.' The mood felt constructive despite a fragile macroeconomic backdrop, with stronger international buyer and media presence signaling renewed global interest in Shanghai as a creative hub. Shanghai Fashion Week officials noted the platform's role in helping brands convert runway visibility into sales. Designers like Yirantian offered sleek suiting, Markgong stylized contemporary femininity, and Shushu/Tong embraced an It-girl archetype. Trends included animal prints for a wild touch, candied pinks and reds from Susan Fang to Shuting Qiu, fringe details by Oude Waag and Xu Zhi, and versatile skirt suits. Ontimeshow founder Yeli Gu observed that restraint has given way to 'femininity, romanticism and emotional texture.' Marine Humeau of Printemps added, 'We want more authenticity, femininity and romanticism,' noting Chinese designers' unique cultural twist. SND's Will Zhang described it as an evolution of 'Clean Fit,' not a decline. On the business side, MODE Shanghai reported 64% of orders above RMB 1,000, with labels like Xi Xiang Jin and Northbutsouth generating over RMB 20 million via Taobao livestreams during the week. 'China Chic' transitioned to subtler cultural references in collections by Feng Chen Wang and Shuting Qiu. The New Wave Fashion Awards honored Feng Chen Wang as Visionary of the Year, Motoguo for Future Force, and Chén Sifān for Public Impact.
