Phoebe Philo presented her new Collection E in a Paris showroom during January’s haute couture shows, maintaining her low-profile approach two-and-a-half years after launching her brand. Accessories from her line appeared at recent runway shows, signaling strong influence. Street style photographer Tommy Ton described her designs as empowering armor.
Two-and-a-half years after launching her brand, Phoebe Philo continues to shun traditional fanfare, with no runway shows, no personal Instagram, and rare interviews. Yet her presence permeates the fashion scene. Spotters noted her accessories at recent runway shows, including a small leather Gig bag in baby blue, gathered flats in glossy white, a Kick tailored jacket in salt and pepper, and numerous Bombé shades. Street style photographer Tommy Ton, who has covered the shows for 20 years, said: “She really did give women a sense of empowerment in her clothes when she was designing for Celine and it carries on through her own collection. It’s almost a badge of honor wearing Phoebe Philo. It’s a type of armor that makes you feel like you’re still part of a members only club.” Collection E was displayed in a Paris showroom far from the main action during January’s haute couture week, drawing enthusiasts to examine shearlings and leather jackets of varied finishes and silhouettes. Highlights included the double-breasted belted Nuzzle jacket in shearling melange-dyed shades of blue and apricot, and the longer Ted shearling robe. Philo balanced investment pieces with playful elements, such as a shaved blue shearling hoodie paired with drawstring trousers in shaved shearling and deep red, evoking indulgent sweats. Densely 3D-embroidered t-shirts in technical fabric mimicked carnation textures. Everyday items gained uniqueness through details like shoulder patches on men’s t-shirts or sculptural-industrial tubes on tank hems. Philo favored high-low mixes, such as shearling with pajama pants or t-shirts with asymmetrical-train trousers, and evening looks with canvas plimsolls. Unfussy after-dark options featured a silk t-shirt “gown,” black leather salopettes worn bare underneath, and a scarf top with a bare back suspended by a delicate neck strap.