In a recent article, watch enthusiast Henry emphasizes the importance of considering long-term serviceability when buying mechanical watches. He argues that beyond initial appeal, factors like parts availability and expert support are crucial for a watch's longevity across generations. Drawing from personal experiences, he highlights brands like Rolex and IWC as examples of strong after-sales ecosystems.
Mechanical watches require ongoing maintenance, typically every 5–10 years, involving cleaning, lubrication, parts replacement, and calibration, according to Henry in his Fratello Watches piece published on March 7, 2026. He shares his experience with a vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002, noting its straightforward servicing due to Rolex's global service centers and independent watchmakers familiar with its movement.
Henry stresses that serviceability depends on brand commitment, parts availability, and a supportive ecosystem. For instance, IWC's restoration department services and restores watches back to the 19th century, using original documentation to fabricate missing parts. In contrast, he recounts challenges servicing a neo-vintage Seiko, where the brand was reluctant to handle older models.
The article points to the IWC Caliber 89 movement, produced from the late 1940s through the late 1970s, as an example of enduring support through official and independent channels. However, for brands with scarce parts or fading expertise, watches risk becoming non-functional relics. Henry warns that fewer traditional watchmakers exist today, with skills consolidating in factory centers, potentially limiting options for niche or new in-house movements.
Reader comments echo these concerns, citing issues with brands like Vaer, Bulova, and Orient, where parts are unavailable or servicing is inadequate. Some praise reliable movements like ETA 2824 in Tudor watches or Grand Seiko quartz for long-term viability. Others note Rolex's policy of supporting watches for 35 years post-catalog and halting parts to third parties about five years ago, while Tudor's Kenissi movements involve full swaps rather than repairs.
Henry concludes that buyers should evaluate a brand's longevity, movement ecosystem, parts standardization, and future expertise, treating a watch as a multigenerational heirloom rather than a short-term possession.