Alix Higgins presents intuitive Pre-Fall 2026 collection

Alix Higgins showcased his Pre-Fall 2026 collection, seeking to abandon single-theme organization in favor of intuitive and emotional approaches. Drawing from the phrase 'goodbye cowboy' in Honour Levy’s My First Book, he mixed ambiguous symbols, clashing dress codes, and subtle details.

Alix Higgins explained his shift: “I wanted to shake that off a little bit and go back to this way of working from before, which is sort of intuitive and emotional.” The phrase “goodbye cowboy,” discovered in Levy’s book, inspired key looks. He described it as “this very meaningful thing of yearning, but also it’s kind of meaningless and silly.” It appeared in cyan blue sans serif on a gray v-neck knit layered over a red ruffled collar and paired with printed board shorts in a surfer style. Elsewhere, it featured in clip-art font on a t-shirt worn with a fluted silk chiffon skirt cut on the bias and a hat suited to a romantic drifter. Rash-shirts and tanks echoed his early gradient stretch fabrics but used bold athletic primaries. A business shirt and tie combined with oversized cotton shorts highlighted the clashing of tropes from the internet age and identities explored in Levy’s work. Higgins aimed to collapse these into one cohesive mix. Symbols like stars on boxy t-shirts and trailing skirts could evoke astrology, patriotism, or decoration. He noted: “I wanted to keep some things for the people who come to the shop and they look up close and there are these small fragments of text, but it’s maybe not so much for everyone.” This intimacy appeals to fans visiting his store in Sydney’s Chinatown. Pragmatic and client-focused, Higgins introduced black—a color he finds uncomfortable—and prints resembling storm clouds, smoke, or roses. He emphasized ambiguity: there’s always room for personal interpretation.

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Models on the runway at Celine's Fall/Winter 2026 show in a wooden Paris Fashion Week venue, featuring slim tailoring and eccentric details.
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Michael Rider's third Celine fall/winter 2026 collection blends instinctive style with slimmer classics in Paris

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Michael Rider presented his third collection as Celine's creative director at Paris Fashion Week, staging the fall/winter 2026 ready-to-wear show in a wooden venue behind the Institut de France. Emphasizing intuition over concepts and slimmer silhouettes with edge, the lineup drew from a daily Paris commute for wearable tailoring and eccentric details that celebrate personal style.

Gabriele Colangelo presented a fall 2026 ready-to-wear collection in Milan that emphasized graphic minimalism and utilitarian practicality for women. The lineup featured unexpected elements like puffy bombers and sculptural tailoring, balancing structure with fluidity. The show highlighted the designer's ongoing exploration of the female form through innovative materials and silhouettes.

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Fresh from a V&A exhibition in London, Japanese designer Ryunosuke Okazaki showcased his Tokyo Fall 2026 collection on the runway. The show featured extraordinary exoskeletons that blend armor-like spikes with human tenderness, marking his first foray into ready-to-wear pieces.

Japanese menswear label Khoki showcased its Fall 2026 collection, aiming to clarify its design identity after last season's confusion. The show, held in designer Koki Abe's childhood home, incorporated family cushion covers and whimsical patchwork elements. Themes included flea markets, chaotic beauty, and American folk art.

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Designer Duro Olowu presented his fall 2026 ready-to-wear collection at the Sadie Coles gallery in London, emphasizing clean lines and black fabrics. The show drew from 1970s influences tied to his Jamaican heritage. Attendees praised the modern reinterpretations of vintage styles.

Designer Zuhair Murad presented his fall 2026 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week, drawing inspiration from the portraits of Giovanni Boldini. The show highlighted a blend of excess and restraint, capturing a complex femininity seen in Belle Époque elite. Key pieces featured architectural tailoring, floral motifs, and retro glamour elements.

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Designer Steve O Smith has presented his Fall 2026 ready-to-wear collection, incorporating color for the first time in his signature illustrative style. Drawing from 1920s influences like Otto Dix, Edward Burra, and Madeleine Vionnet, the pieces feature hand-dyed tulle and beaded details. Smith used funds from last year's LVMH Prize to build a couture-trained team in London.

 

 

 

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