Bvlgari has introduced a new range of mechanical watches for women after over a decade of research and development. The collection features in-house movements, moving away from battery-powered quartz options in models like Serpenti and Aeterna. This shift addresses client preferences and the practical challenges of small batteries in jewelry watches.
Bvlgari, known for its jewelry heritage, has expanded its offerings for female customers with a full portfolio of mechanical watches equipped with in-house manufactured movements. These range from time-only pieces to high-jewelry creations, including lines such as Tubogas, Aeterna, Serpenti, and Monete. The development, which took more than 10 years, responds to a trend over the past 10-15 years where women have shown increasing interest in mechanical timepieces, according to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director at Bvlgari watches. Previously, these models relied on quartz movements, but sales suffered due to client reluctance, prompting the shift to mechanical calibers produced at the brand's Neuchâtel manufacture, beyond its renowned Octo Finissimo line. The new movements include the manual-winding BVL 100 Piccolissimo, a 1.3-gram mechanism with 102 components and a 30-hour power reserve, first introduced in the Serpenti Misteriosi. An updated version features a crown at the 3 o'clock position, though the original caseback crown remains for the Misteriosi to preserve the snake-head design. Buonamassa Stigliani explained, “We introduced the Piccolissimo in the Serpenti Misteriosi, and now we also have the movement with a crown at 3 o’clock instead of only on the caseback. But we still have it on the caseback in the Misteriosi – you don’t want to see a crown sticking out of the head of the snake.” The automatic BVS 100 Solotempo powers models like Serpenti Seduttori, Serpenti Tubogas, and Aeterna Serpenti, offering a 50-hour power reserve. This innovation counters the drawbacks of quartz in seldom-worn jewelry pieces, where small batteries deplete after just 2-3 uses, risking watches being stored away unused. Buonamassa Stigliani noted, “On such watches the battery is very small. And when you look at jewelry pieces, it is something that you tend to use rather seldom. So, after 2-3 uses, it is often that the battery is out.” He emphasized that mechanical options, despite shorter power reserves, suit special occasions better. Unlike male collectors drawn to technical specs, female buyers prioritize holistic design, including proportions, femininity, colors, materials, finishes, and ergonomic bracelets. Buonamassa Stigliani shared, “But ladies tend to be more creative, and they have interesting design points of view. It is more difficult! With women it is not just the movement – the whole watch must all together have the right blend of proportions, femininity, colors, materials, finishings. The bracelet is very important.” Developing small, reliable movements is challenging and costly, a reason such calibers have become rare in the industry, as seen historically with Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 101. For Bvlgari, as a jewelry brand, integrating mechanical movements into high-jewelry watches aligns with its identity.