Mathieu Cleguer unveils Inspiration One debut watch

Mathieu Cleguer, a former technical specialist at independent watch brands, has launched his first creation under his own name: the Cleguer Inspiration One. The 38.5mm titanium model introduces a proprietary innate escapement. Limited production of 80 pieces across five metals is planned.

Mathieu Cleguer, originally from Brittany, shifted from automotive ambitions to watchmaking after encountering a brand at the 2006 Paris Motorshow. He studied micro-mechanics at HE-ARC in Neuchâtel and gained experience on technical teams at high-end independents before starting his brand. The Inspiration One embodies his philosophy of integrating engineering with design, termed 'engineering as a creative act,' where components align with an overarching mechanical composition. Cleguer describes each part as considered for both function and position within a larger design. The debut watch features a 38.5mm by 12mm titanium case, with an initial run of 12 pieces already sold out. A total of 80 pieces will be produced in five metals, including 20 unique versions, followed by a gold model priced at CHF 95,300. Its hand-wound movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour, with a power reserve limited to 36 hours for consistent torque, despite a 55-hour capacity. The innate escapement combines a double-wheel natural escapement with self-starting tangential action from a Fasoldt design, achieving friction-free operation. Visible elements include twin wheels through mainplate apertures and an oversized balance wheel beneath a grand feu enameled dial. Finishing includes Geneva striping, soleilage, anglage, and media-blasted plates, with purple accents and a Breton icon at 12 o'clock. A subtle power reserve indicator appears at 11 o'clock, and the seconds track lies near the crystal edge.

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IWC Schaffhausen has expanded its Ingenieur collection with five new models unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2026, marking the 50th anniversary of the Gérald Genta-designed Ingenieur SL ref. 1832. The releases include smaller cases, diverse materials like ceramic and titanium, and complications such as perpetual calendars and tourbillons. Prices start at €11,300 for a steel model and reach price-on-request for a limited gold tourbillon.

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Desder, a new watch brand from Modena, Italy, has unveiled the D001, a limited-edition timepiece featuring a triple-axis tourbillon. Founded by designer Mo Coppoletta and watchmaker Luca Soprana, the watch draws inspiration from 1920s teardrop shapes and classic Italian sports cars. Only six unique pieces will be produced.

Watch enthusiast Jorg has selected his top five watches from the Watches and Wonders 2026 event. His picks highlight releases from Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Zenith, Chopard, and Cartier. The show featured consolidation rather than major innovations, according to Jorg.

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Dutch watchmaker Holthinrichs has introduced the Lab Series 1.S and Lab Series 1.GMT as its first special releases marking the brand's 10th anniversary. Both models feature 3D-printed titanium cases and unique domed copper-oxide patina dials. Limited to 100 pieces each, they are available for order on the brand's website.

 

 

 

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