Milan Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2026 commenced on February 24, featuring major designer debuts at houses like Gucci, Fendi, and Marni amid a challenging luxury retail landscape. The event includes 52 runway shows and 89 presentations, highlighted by emerging talents and cultural initiatives following the Winter Olympics. Diesel kicked off the week with a show emphasizing texture and excess.
Milan Fashion Week (MFW) Fall/Winter 2026 runs from February 24 to March 1, following the conclusion of the Winter Olympics on February 22. The schedule encompasses 52 physical runway shows and 89 presentations, including established brands such as Prada, Diesel, Ferragamo, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, and Max Mara.
Dover Street Market Paris buying director Nick Tran described the mood as one of curiosity, posing questions about upcoming collections: “What will Demna bring to Gucci? What about Meryll Rogge for Marni? And Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi? And what will Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander and Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta showcase in their sophomore collections?”
Major debuts include Maria Grazia Chiuri's runway debut as Fendi's chief creative officer on Wednesday afternoon. Chiuri, who previously worked at Fendi from 1988 to 1999, returns after nine years at Dior. Vogue’s Tiziana Cardini expressed interest: “I’m really curious to see Maria Grazia at Fendi. That’s my big curiosity.” On Thursday, Meryll Rogge, winner of the 2025 Andam Prize, presents her first Marni collection. Friday features Demna's official Gucci runway show, following pre-releases like La Famiglia and Generation Gucci, accompanied by a party and secret music performance.
Sophomore collections from Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Bellotti at Jil Sander are anticipated, alongside David Koma's third show for Blumarine. For Armani brands, Giorgio Armani is designed by the late founder's niece Silvana, following his passing before the SS26 show, while Emporio Armani involves a collaboration with Leo Dell’Orco.
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) president Carlo Capasa anticipates “pragmatic energy” amid retail challenges, including the Saks Global bankruptcy and growth declines for conglomerates Kering, LVMH, and OTB in fiscal 2025. Capasa noted: “The retail landscape is clearly undergoing a significant transformation, and multi-brand stores are facing particular pressure. This is a structural shift that cannot be ignored.”
Emerging talents gain spotlight, with Institution by Galib Gassanoff on Friday and Act No.1 on Saturday, both LVMH Prize semi-finalists. Other new labels include Francesco Murano, Florania, and Casa Preti, supported by Fondazione Sozzani. Events feature Moncler's Grenoble exhibition on Wednesday, Ann Demeulemeester's store opening on Thursday, and GCDS's 10th-anniversary celebration on Friday. CNMI's Fashion Hub opens to the public with exhibitions like “Future Threads: Italy’s New Wave and New Gen, New Ethos.”
Diesel opened the week under Glenn Martens with a collection described as a riot of texture and playful excess.
