La Semana de la Moda de Milán otoño/invierno 2026 abre con importantes debuts

La Semana de la Moda de Milán para otoño/invierno 2026 comenzó el 24 de febrero, con importantes debuts de diseñadores en firmas como Gucci, Fendi y Marni en medio de un panorama desafiante para el comercio minorista de lujo. El evento incluye 52 desfiles en pasarela y 89 presentaciones, destacando talentos emergentes e iniciativas culturales tras los Juegos Olímpicos de Invierno. Diesel abrió la semana con un desfile que enfatiza texturas y exceso.

La Semana de la Moda de Milán (MFW) otoño/invierno 2026 se celebra del 24 de febrero al 1 de marzo, tras la conclusión de los Juegos Olímpicos de Invierno el 22 de febrero. El calendario abarca 52 desfiles en pasarela presenciales y 89 presentaciones, incluyendo marcas establecidas como Prada, Diesel, Ferragamo, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro y Max Mara. Dover Street Market Paris buying director Nick Tran described the mood as one of curiosity, posing questions about upcoming collections: “What will Demna bring to Gucci? What about Meryll Rogge for Marni? And Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi? And what will Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander and Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta showcase in their sophomore collections?” Major debuts include Maria Grazia Chiuri's runway debut as Fendi's chief creative officer on Wednesday afternoon. Chiuri, who previously worked at Fendi from 1988 to 1999, returns after nine years at Dior. Vogue’s Tiziana Cardini expressed interest: “I’m really curious to see Maria Grazia at Fendi. That’s my big curiosity.” On Thursday, Meryll Rogge, winner of the 2025 Andam Prize, presents her first Marni collection. Friday features Demna's official Gucci runway show, following pre-releases like La Famiglia and Generation Gucci, accompanied by a party and secret music performance. Sophomore collections from Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Bellotti at Jil Sander are anticipated, alongside David Koma's third show for Blumarine. For Armani brands, Giorgio Armani is designed by the late founder's niece Silvana, following his passing before the SS26 show, while Emporio Armani involves a collaboration with Leo Dell’Orco. Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) president Carlo Capasa anticipates “pragmatic energy” amid retail challenges, including the Saks Global bankruptcy and growth declines for conglomerates Kering, LVMH, and OTB in fiscal 2025. Capasa noted: “The retail landscape is clearly undergoing a significant transformation, and multi-brand stores are facing particular pressure. This is a structural shift that cannot be ignored.” Emerging talents gain spotlight, with Institution by Galib Gassanoff on Friday and Act No.1 on Saturday, both LVMH Prize semi-finalists. Other new labels include Francesco Murano, Florania, and Casa Preti, supported by Fondazione Sozzani. Events feature Moncler's Grenoble exhibition on Wednesday, Ann Demeulemeester's store opening on Thursday, and GCDS's 10th-anniversary celebration on Friday. CNMI's Fashion Hub opens to the public with exhibitions like “Future Threads: Italy’s New Wave and New Gen, New Ethos.” Diesel opened the week under Glenn Martens with a collection described as a riot of texture and playful excess.

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