The 'Antwerp Six' exhibition opened last Friday at the MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp, marking the 40th anniversary of the influential group of designers. Surviving members including Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, and Walter Van Beirendonck attended the event, sharing memories of their early days. The show highlights their rebellious origins at the Antwerp Academy and lasting impact on global fashion.
The exhibition at MoMu features installations created by each designer, recreating their signature worlds. Ann Demeulemeester designed a darkened room with tall black silhouettes on mirrored platforms, evoking a cold moonlight atmosphere. 'I wanted an atmosphere like you are in the night, and the silhouettes are standing on water,' she said. Dries Van Noten recalled the group's classroom beginnings, rebelling against conventional styles inspired by London punk, amid constructive competition among friends to succeed with their unique collections and branding. Walter Van Beirendonck, a year ahead at the academy with Martin Margiela, emphasized storytelling and social engagement in his colorful, playful designs promoting queer pride, safe sex, and anti-racism. 'Limitations are just invitations to think different,' he stated. The Antwerp Six, under retailer Geert Bruloot, drove a truck to London in 1987 for their debut, staging a guerrilla show that got them ejected from London Fashion Week. Curators Kaat Debo, Geert Bruloot, and Romy Cockx assembled editorial cuttings, videos, and designer artifacts, contextualizing the group's rise with support from a socialist government and local manufacturers. Attendees like Raf Simons, Pieter Mulier, and Meryll Rogge praised the Antwerp Academy's non-molding approach, fostering independence and strong peer bonds that continue to produce talents such as Demna at Gucci and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel.