Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled her first collection as creative director of Fendi during Milan Fashion Week on February 25, 2026, emphasizing a shared wardrobe with the motto 'Less I, more us.' The co-ed show paid homage to the brand's heritage while introducing her signature codes like black lace and laser-cut leather. Industry insiders praised the muted, commercial approach as a fresh start for the Roman house.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, who previously served as Fendi's first woman creative director at Dior from 2016 to 2025, returned to the brand where she worked for 10 years between 1988 and 1999 under the guidance of the five Fendi sisters. Her Fall 2026 ready-to-wear collection, presented in a vast Milan venue, marked the first major debut of the week and drew LVMH executives, celebrities, retailers, and editors.
The show opened with a chain of 17 black looks, setting a more muted tone compared to Fendi's historical bold colors and patterns under Karl Lagerfeld's 54-year tenure. Chiuri focused on defining the brand's silhouette through coats and jackets, creating a transversal wardrobe for men and women. 'A shared wardrobe,' she said backstage. 'The idea was to work on the collection with the same team for men and women... My idea is to make the jacket that everyone desires.'
Key elements included long ballet skirts, pleated skirts, delicate lace cocktail dresses, woolen coats, and evening columns in panne velvet with 1920s influences. Offbeat pieces featured folkloric fur-trimmed vests, an Army green flight suit, and a yellow-and-black motocross jacket, alongside denim and bohemian themes. Accessories highlighted embellished Baguette bags, white leather collars as a nod to Lagerfeld, and furry intarsia football scarves immortalizing the five sisters with phrases like 'Rooted but not stuck' by artist Sagg Napoli. Collaborations included the estate of sculptor Mirella Bentivoglio for jewelry and T-shirts. All fur was remodeled from existing skins, amid protests outside.
Fendi chairman Ramon Ros described it as 'the beginning of a new chapter,' praising Chiuri's innovative yet grounded vision. Industry reactions were largely positive: Tiffany Hsu of Mytheresa called it a 'confident and articulate opening statement,' while Caroline Issa of Tank noted its commercial appeal and 'Roman naughtiness.' Edward Buchanan appreciated the quality but felt unclear on Chiuri's distinct Fendi vision. Chiuri reflected, 'It’s really exciting to start a new project... They taught me to work in a team, to collaborate, to be innovative while maintaining tradition.'