A British visitor returns to Havana after 20 years and finds a city in ruins, with constant power cuts and a deep economic divide between tourists and locals. Residents openly express frustration with the government for the first time in front of a foreigner. The situation has bred insecurity and palpable resentment in the Cuban capital.
Cath Forrest, a visitor from London, arrived in Havana after a 20-year absence and was shocked by the city's condition. Buildings in the historic center resemble a war zone, with pockmarked and colorless concrete, except for the golden dome of the Capitolio restored with Russian funds. Along the Malecón, many structures have collapsed, and others have been replaced by giant international hotels. The 1980s micro-brigade housing along the eastern coast now urgently needs repairs.
Power outages occur daily: at least five hours every evening in central Havana, plus daytime interruptions, which prove deeply demoralizing. While the new Iberostar Hotel in Vedado glows with lights, surrounding neighborhoods plunge into darkness. Since dollar legalization in the 1990s, the gap between tourists and Cubans has widened. One dollar now equals over 400 pesos, rendering the average monthly salary of 6500 pesos worthless. Food is available but pricey: a street tangerine costs 600 pesos, and a pizza in an upscale cafe reaches 2000 pesos, ten times the usual price.
Streets are in poor shape, with loose paving stones, gaping holes, and sewage in gutters, making it unsafe to walk at night. Once the world's safest place, Havana now prompts locals to advise avoiding the dark. Forrest observed a key shift: Cubans openly criticize the government in her presence as a foreigner. "It's all Fidel's fault, he destroyed our industry," said Milagro, an elderly woman during a blackout. Her friend Ilsa lamented: "They've forgotten Che, they're hypocrites who send their children abroad." A mother with arthritic hands added: "We're too weary to strike, we just keep each other laughing." A taxi driver explained: "We would protest, but we can't afford jail on top of everything." When asked about a solution, young Yoel replied swiftly: "Get rid of the Communists."
Despite the hardships, Forrest appreciated the city's enduring beauty and the natural, quiet courtesy of its people away from tourist spots.