Paul Smith presented his spring 2027 menswear collection drawing heavily from his own design history and family memories. The show featured reimagined pieces from past seasons alongside fresh tailoring in lightweight fabrics. Backstage Smith discussed the enduring appeal of suits and shared personal photographs.
The designer spoke about how suits once formed everyday masculine attire before becoming associated with corporate figures. He displayed black-and-white images of himself as a child beside his formally dressed grandfather on a British beach.
Many looks referenced earlier collections including a utility shirt from spring 1996 and a three-button jacket from spring 1990. Field jackets appeared in brown suede and black leather versions originally shown in fall 1999. Vintage tie patterns were revived in Como for several garments and accessories.
Designers Sam Cotton and Helen Holmes incorporated beachcomber elements such as pebbles on seating and pinned knick-knacks on models. Tailoring used textured airy materials including Panama, mouliné, seersucker and Scottish tropical weight wool. Mock-croc jackets featured green glass eye buttons first created for David Bowie in 1982.
Smith described the collection as focused on personality and character.