Designer Umit Benan presented his spring 2027 menswear collection with an emphasis on how fabrics feel against the skin.
Benan said he aims to create garments that evoke a Sunday morning sensation. He washes pairs of jeans 32 times to achieve a desired peach-like finish and runs fine-gauge wools on an interlock machine to produce a light suspension effect.
The collection features a desaturated yellow palette recalling early 1990s Miami alongside earthy browns and tans. Items include a linen double-breasted suit, a blouson, drawstring swim shorts, and neckties paired with Cuban-collar shirts. Knit caps draw from memories of Saint-Tropez and the designer's mother.
Benan prioritizes made-to-order commissions over seasonal runway shows. In the store, plant artist Satoshi Kawamoto created fresh bouquets. The denim took two years to develop and the nylon-and-silk swimsuit took 18 months, with the goal that pieces last for ten years.
