Italy expands luxury fashion supply chain probe

Italian prosecutors have announced a new wave of investigations into worker exploitation at subcontractors supplying several luxury brands. The latest focus is on manufacturers of packaging items such as dust bags and garment bags.

The probe, which began two years ago, has now involved 27 brands in total. Initial cases against Dior, Giorgio Armani, Loro Piana, Valentino and Alviero Martini were closed after the companies made required changes. A December 2025 phase named 13 more brands linked to suppliers accused of exploiting mainly Chinese workers.

The newest allegations, announced late last week, target subcontractors Moda Fashion Styles in Milan and Isacco in Varese. Inspections found undeclared workers without permits, unsafe machinery and poor living conditions. Invoices linked the sites to suppliers of Chanel, Moncler, Bvlgari, Brunello Cucinelli and others.

All named brands have stated they are cooperating with authorities and have strengthened oversight. None face direct court administration. Prosecutors are seeking documentation on supplier audits dating back two years.

Earlier phases also examined forced labor and illicit subcontracting under Italy’s Anti-Mafia Code. Experts note these issues affect the entire supply chain, not only fast fashion.

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