Italy expands luxury fashion supply chain probe

Italian prosecutors have announced a new wave of investigations into worker exploitation at subcontractors supplying several luxury brands. The latest focus is on manufacturers of packaging items such as dust bags and garment bags.

The probe, which began two years ago, has now involved 27 brands in total. Initial cases against Dior, Giorgio Armani, Loro Piana, Valentino and Alviero Martini were closed after the companies made required changes. A December 2025 phase named 13 more brands linked to suppliers accused of exploiting mainly Chinese workers.

The newest allegations, announced late last week, target subcontractors Moda Fashion Styles in Milan and Isacco in Varese. Inspections found undeclared workers without permits, unsafe machinery and poor living conditions. Invoices linked the sites to suppliers of Chanel, Moncler, Bvlgari, Brunello Cucinelli and others.

All named brands have stated they are cooperating with authorities and have strengthened oversight. None face direct court administration. Prosecutors are seeking documentation on supplier audits dating back two years.

Earlier phases also examined forced labor and illicit subcontracting under Italy’s Anti-Mafia Code. Experts note these issues affect the entire supply chain, not only fast fashion.

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The Italian fashion council has issued voluntary guidance asking brands at Milan Fashion Week to remove animal fur from runways as early as September. The move comes after activist protests earlier in the year and signals growing pressure on the industry.

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Major luxury fashion groups are turning to cotton grown and processed in Europe to gain better control over their supply chains. The shift comes amid concerns over global volatility, climate risks and traceability issues with traditional suppliers.

Canali presented its spring 2027 menswear collection at Scalo Romana in Milan amid a heatwave. The lineup drew on a spice route theme spanning four legs from Indonesia to Sicily, with an emphasis on versatile layering for changing climates.

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The schedule for Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 was announced this week, featuring 54 physical shows and six digital presentations from September 22 to 28.

Saint Laurent presented its Spring 2027 menswear collection on June 23 in Paris during a record heat wave. Designer Anthony Vaccarello staged the show at the Paris Bourse with a fog installation by artist Fujiko Nakaya. The collection emphasized lightness and subtle details.

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Moschino has named Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo as its new co-creative directors. The announcement comes days after the departure of Adrian Appiolaza.

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