Illustration of standout creative director debuts at Fendi, Marni, and Gucci runways during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026, highlighting layered, wearable trends.
Illustration of standout creative director debuts at Fendi, Marni, and Gucci runways during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026, highlighting layered, wearable trends.
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Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026: Standout debuts at Fendi, Marni, and Gucci amid innovative trends

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Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026 wrapped up in late February 2026 with major creative director debuts at Fendi, Marni, and Gucci. Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted at Fendi on February 26 with a collaborative, craftsmanship-focused collection; Meryll Rogge presented her vision for Marni the same day; and Demna unveiled his Gucci debut on February 27. The season emphasized layering, wearability, and substance amid retail challenges.

Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026, the third leg of fashion month held February 24-27, 2026, in Milan, featured transitions at key Italian houses like Prada, Fendi, Marni, Gucci, and others. Street style buzz and runway innovation drew global attention despite a tough retail landscape, including Saks Global's collapse.

Debuts dominated: Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fendi show on February 26 centered on “Meno Io, Più Noi/Less I, More Us,” highlighting collective fashion efforts. It blended monochrome black (opening 17 looks), tributes to the five Fendi sisters via fur scarves in orange, yellow, or black-and-white, ballet-style skirts, black lace tailoring echoing her Dior era, collaborations with artist Mirella Bentivoglio's estate and performer SAGG Napoli, and reimagined Baguette bags in beading, paillettes, embroidery, and animal prints. “You may like it, you may not, but Chiuri definitely has guts. She believes in her vision,” said Vogue’s Tiziana Cardini.

Meryll Rogge, who grew up admiring Marni and follows founders Consuelo Castiglioni and Francesco Risso, debuted the same day with 1990s ready-to-wear influences: co-ed stripes, oversized dots, bubble hems, vintage shift dresses, knee-length skirts, heavy embellishments, offbeat color-texture mixes, rugged Alpine elements, sophisticated tailoring, and reengineered Fussbett sandals. “It was important to bring [Marni] back to real life... worn from day to night,” Rogge said.

Demna's Gucci debut, “Gucci Primavera,” on February 27 in Palazzo delle Scintille—staged as a faux Uffizi with statue replicas—included skintight black slacks, thin logo belts, sheer white hosiery minidresses, minimalist bodycon silhouettes evoking Tom Ford's 1990s era, and spotlight lighting. Models comprised Kate Moss, Karlie Kloss, Alex Consani, Vivian Wilson, plus rappers like Fakemink and Nettspend. Front row: Donatella Versace. The polarizing yet praised show featured muscly menswear and womenswear. “Gucci was absolutely incredible, my favorite debut,” said Net-a-Porter's Brigitte Chartrand.

Prada highlighted multifaceted women through layering: 15 models, including Bella Hadid, walked four times each across 60 evolving looks peeled back like real life, per Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons' notes.

Broader trends signaled substance over excess: protective armor at Max Mara and Bottega Veneta; co-ed blending at Gucci, Bottega, others; black as a “blank page” (No.21); maximalist fur, lace, thigh-high boots at Fendi, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana; strong outerwear, suiting, stiletto heels. Retailers lauded craftsmanship and wearability. Camera della Moda president Carlo Capasa called it “particularly intense and significant,” with solid identities supporting young talents like Act No.1 and Institution, LVMH Prize 2026 semi-finalists.

O que as pessoas estão dizendo

X discussions on Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026 focus on the debuts of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi, Meryll Rogge at Marni, and Demna at Gucci. Sentiments range from praise for craftsmanship, wearability, and brand fidelity to critiques of lacking innovation, dull presentations, and unfulfilled concepts. Fashion enthusiasts and magazines highlight commercial potential amid calls for bolder visions.

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