Ernesto Naranjo presented his Fall 2026 collection at Madrid Fashion Week, marking his return to the event since 2014 when he participated as a student from Central Saint Martins. After years abroad working with John Galliano at Maison Margiela, founding his label, and teaching, Naranjo showcased his expanded range beyond dresses into versatile separates. He described pushing beyond his comfort zone as an event designer.
Madrid Fashion Week welcomed back Ernesto Naranjo for his Fall 2026 collection, a significant homecoming for the designer originally from Andalusia. Naranjo first joined the event in 2014 as a Central Saint Martins student. Over the past decade, he lived abroad, collaborated with John Galliano at Maison Margiela, launched his own company, and began teaching. His latest show highlighted skills honed during this time, moving from signature dresses to build-a-look separates that many designers favored this season. “I always felt that I was an event designer—and I know that I am that person and I love it—but I wanted to put myself outside of the comfort zone,” Naranjo said in a phone interview. The collection's foundation consisted of garments cut from circular and square patterns, transforming into soft body sculptures like a little black dress and a two-tone cape. Multifunctional pieces included tops that doubled as skirts, while belts were repurposed into dramatic collars. Straw pom-poms, evoking flamenco flowers from Andalusia, emerged from folds in a pink chiffon blouse and decorated belts that models draped over their shoulders. Broader inspirations drew from artists Ángela de la Cruz and Gillian Theobald, the Gutai movement, and Studio 54's glamour, seen in draped jersey and glittering lamés. Minimal closures—such as stray buttons or ribbon ties—added sensuality, hinting at undress. The runway opened with crin-framed jersey pieces that appeared to dance independently.