Halfway between Cape Town and Johannesburg, the historic town of Richmond in South Africa's Northern Cape hides a delightful character behind its ordinary facade. Once overlooked by travellers on the N1 highway, it draws visitors with its book culture, welcoming community, and quiet charm. Residents share stories of finding peace and belonging in this Karoo gem.
Nestled in the central Karoo region, Richmond appears unremarkable at first, often passed by on the N1 route. Yet, for those who stop, its appeal unfolds through a vibrant literary scene and tight-knit community. As Africa's only registered book town, it features shops like the Karoo Bookshop, opened by Hennie Smit and his wife Rezia, filled with century-old volumes from floor to ceiling.
Every October, the town hosts the Boekbedonnerd Book Festival, with its 20th edition upcoming next year, according to bookshop owner John Donaldson. Artistic touches from the nonprofit Modern Art Projects South Africa adorn walls with poems and murals, enhancing the cultural fabric.
Twins Ian and Hennie Smit, builders from Cape Town, retired at 50 and settled in Richmond eight years ago after a single overnight stay convinced them it was home. Ian now manages several businesses, including an antique shop serving as the town's information center. 'Richmond is the town you almost missed,' he says. His brother Hennie passed away in January, a profound loss for the inseparable pair, but Ian found comfort in local friendships. 'That's Richmond. I think the other way to spell Richmond is love. Unconditional love. Everybody for everybody,' Ian reflects.
The community embraces newcomers, as seen with Chloe Wales, who relocated from Cape Town in 2019. 'It’s better here. There’s no crime, there’s no gangsterism. It’s very quiet and it’s peaceful,' she notes. Animal welfare is strong too; Ian's wife Maksie leads Richmond Animal Welfare, which recently spayed 90 dogs in one day.
Social dynamics reflect apartheid's legacy, with racial divisions in spatial layout. Donaldson observes limited integration due to lacking communal spaces, while artist Valentino Williams reports no personal discrimination but acknowledges tensions between black and coloured groups.
