Shiseido faces tough turnaround after cosmetics missteps

Japanese cosmetics giant Shiseido is grappling with its biggest challenge in decades, stemming from a costly misfire in North America and eroding market share to nimble Asian rivals. Six years ago, the company spent $845 million acquiring the American brand Drunk Elephant to tap into younger customers, but has since written off more than half the investment due to falling profits and sales.

Shiseido, once a formidable challenger to L’Oreal and Estee Lauder Companies, is now navigating its most significant hurdles in decades. The Japanese cosmetics maker has been hit by a costly blunder in North America and the loss of ground to agile Asian competitors.

Six years ago, Shiseido invested $845 million to acquire the American brand Drunk Elephant, aiming to attract a younger demographic. However, declining profits and sales have forced the company to impair more than half of that investment. This setback underscores broader challenges in the North American market.

Shiseido’s difficulties highlight the rapid shifts in the global cosmetics industry, driven by evolving social trends, accelerated product cycles, and competition from South Korean and Chinese rivals. Companies like Amorepacific and Kolmar Korea have surpassed Shiseido, becoming the largest exporters of cosmetics to the U.S. These agile players have outmaneuvered the Japanese firm, illustrating how quickly beauty brands can falter in a dynamic market.

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Chinese beauty brands are encountering a slow slog in expanding their retail presence outside China. CLSA analyst Chris Gao notes that for established domestic cosmetics companies attempting to expand abroad, progress is still in its early stages.

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Chinese cosmetics brands are rapidly expanding in global markets, narrowing the gap with South Korea's K-beauty powerhouse. In the first 11 months of 2025, China's exports reached $3.99 billion, up 8.7 percent, while Korea's hit a record $10.3 billion, rising 11.8 percent, though China's faster growth signals intensifying rivalry.

In 2025, J-pop artists ramped up international tours, with government backing adding momentum. Cloud Nine CEO Takuya Chigira's warning from last year spurred efforts to avoid becoming niche abroad. Anime, social media, and ad campaigns aid diversification, though global reach remains a question.

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Major Japanese nonlife insurer MS&AD Insurance Group Holdings plans to consolidate its domestic bases from around 360 to 240 ahead of the April 2027 merger of its key subsidiaries. President Shinichiro Funabiki emphasized that integration is essential for cost reductions.

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