Garbage vendors line Havana's stately Reina Street

Vendors offer items rescued from garbage piles under the arcades of Reina Street, Havana's most stately avenue. The scene emerged during a shopping errand amid shortages of basic goods. Yoani Sánchez recounts her observations while seeking welding rods and hot dogs.

Yoani Sánchez, in an article by 14ymedio, describes a morning in Havana driven by the need for home repairs and scarce food items. She wakes at 3 a.m. to a rooster named Caruso and heads out for welding rods and royal cord cable at a fair near the Capitol, plus hot dogs or “perritos” for a friend's daughter's birthday salad. She tries hitching a ride on Rancho Boyeros but walks via Ayestaran and 20 de Mayo to Centro Habana and Infanta at Santa Marta, visiting a state-run dollar store. It smells of spoiled meat; shelves hold canned mushrooms, asparagus jars, black olives, cod (one kilogram worth three months' pension), frozen salmon, but no milk, butter, eggs, sardines, cheese, vegetable oil, or hot dogs. An elderly man outside asks for something “to eat.” Hot dogs, a staple for decades in snacks, dinners, and prison visits, are now scarce. She proceeds down Carlos III to Reina Street, where under the arcades vendors display garbage-rescued items: worn wrinkled shoes, old remote controls with grease traces, half-inch plumbing elbows with mineral residue, a single right-foot woman's shoe for a teen, broken radio antenna, Italian coffee maker missing handle and funnel, 2016 calendar, and a dirty blister pack of pills. She checks La Isla de Cuba state store in Fraternity Park: empty butcher section, Spanish capers, no frozen chicken or hot dogs. Finally, at the hardware market near the Cuban Parliament, private vendors supply 10 meters of royal cord quickly: “Ask for whatever you need—we’ve got it.” She walks home along Reina, passing the vendor waving the lone shoe. This unfolds amid an energy crisis with scarce transport.

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Dramatic illustration of Mexico City Mayor Alessandra Rojo de la Vega facing off against protesting street vendors and Deputy Diana Sánchez Barrios during a violent stall relocation clash in San Cosme.
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Clash in San Cosme between mayor and deputy over street vendor reordering

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On Friday, February 13, a street vendor reordering operation on Avenida Ribera de San Cosme in Cuauhtémoc led to cross-accusations of violence between Mayor Alessandra Rojo de la Vega and Deputy Diana Sánchez Barrios. The mayor reported an attack by over 200 people on her team, while the legislator accused borough staff of violently removing previously relocated stalls under an agreement.

In Havana neighborhoods like Lawton, residents are setting fire to corner garbage piles, possibly due to fuel shortages or as a form of expression. This occurs amid urban deterioration, transport scarcity, and widespread tension. The author portrays an atmosphere of uncertainty and anxiety in daily Cuban life.

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Cuba's capital has an apocalyptic feel at night, with pot-banging protests echoing through various neighborhoods, while daytime brings the smell of burning garbage. Fires caused by waste accumulation and fuel shortages add to prolonged blackouts that worsen social unrest. Anti-government graffiti appears on walls, reflecting growing tension.

In Havana, paralyzed by fuel shortages, bicycle delivery workers have become essential for moving goods. Young workers like Yasiel and Marcos transport food, medicines, and packages despite risks and exhaustion. This informal network grew with the energy crisis and now fills the gap left by fuel-dependent vehicles.

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In a personal diary, Veronica Vega describes the collapse of public transport in Cuba, comparing it to the 1980s and the Special Period crisis. Despite current desperate conditions, hope emerges for change driven by cultural expressions and predictions of transformation. Vega concludes that Cuba is worth it as a place to stay and build a future.

Following Wednesday's collapse of Cuba's National Electric System due to a failure at the Matanzas-based Antonio Guiteras power plant, residents in this eastern city face prolonged outages exceeding 30 hours, forcing a reorganization of daily life amid growing resignation.

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On 160th Street in La Lisa municipality, Havana, two almendrones stand motionless, holding over half a century of urban history. These mid-20th-century U.S. automobiles arrived in Cuba in the late 1940s and 1950s, during a time of intense vehicle imports. Their current abandonment marks the end of a mechanical survival model that endured for decades.

 

 

 

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