Major luxury fashion groups are turning to cotton grown and processed in Europe to gain better control over their supply chains. The shift comes amid concerns over global volatility, climate risks and traceability issues with traditional suppliers.
A cluster of farms in Greece near the Ionian Sea has drawn attention from European luxury houses. These operations sit close to one of the region's few remaining spinning mills and produce yarns that stay entirely within the continent.
Kering executive Rachel Kolbe Semhoun said the company values the traceability and transparency that European sources provide. She noted that some Kering brands already use regenerative cotton from Greece and Spain. Fellow groups LVMH and Armani are pursuing similar projects in Greece and Italy.
European cotton accounts for just 2 percent of global output, with Greece producing about 280,000 tonnes and Spain 72,000 tonnes. Only 25 percent of this cotton is processed locally, with the rest shipped elsewhere.
Regenerative practices are central to these efforts. Programs in Greece have cut tillage by 14 percent and reduced fertilizer and pesticide use, while Spanish projects test lower-water cotton varieties. Experts say long-term investment and industry commitments will be needed to expand capacity.