The Michelin Guide's arrival in the Philippines has sparked discussions on recognition of Filipino cuisine and the concept of authentic food. While some celebrate the global spotlight on local chefs and restaurants, others view it as an external measure misaligned with local contexts. Anthropologist Stephen Acabado argues that true culinary pride lies in defining excellence on our own terms, underscoring the hybrid history of Filipino food.
The arrival of the Michelin Guide in the Philippines has generated attention and discussion. On one hand, some take pride in seeing Filipino chefs and restaurants included in an international framework that evaluates culinary practices and standards. On the other, some reject the listing altogether, viewing it as an external measure that may not align with local contexts and values.
The Guide draws visibility to Filipino cuisine and positions it within global systems of recognition, while also introducing new expectations regarding technique, consistency, and presentation. These shifts shape how local chefs engage with both international and local dining communities.
As UC Berkeley professor Leloy Claudio wrote, the antidote to the Michelin Guide is not rejection. "We will talk to the world, but we will also talk, write, cook, and eat for ourselves." The Guide, based on European fine-dining traditions, can only capture part of what Filipino cuisine is.
True culinary pride lies in defining excellence on our own terms, honoring the everyday tables, carinderias, and kitchens that shape our collective taste and history. Authenticity is overrated; identity is what matters now.
The article highlights historical context: Many ingredients in Filipino food, like sili, kamatis, and mani, arrived from Mexico via the 250-year Manila-Acapulco galleon trade. Rice became central only a few centuries ago; ancestors depended on taro (gabi), yam (ube), and banana. Dishes like linapay, pinangat, and natong are built around taro, evidence of older food systems.
Pancit and toyo trace Chinese roots; spices illustrate ancient Malay and Arab exchanges. Chili peppers arrived in the 1500s from Mexico. The idea of a pure Filipino cuisine is not nationalism but fiction. Filipino food has always been a story of mixing, transformation, and adaptation.
Stephen B. Acabado is a professor of anthropology at the University of California-Los Angeles. He directs the Ifugao and Bicol Archaeological Projects and grew up in Tinambac, Camarines Sur.