In the tranquil grounds of Zoshigaya Kishimojin hall in Tokyo, Kamikawaguchiya, founded in 1781, sells traditional Japanese snacks. Owner Masayo Uchiyama, 85, the 13th-generation proprietor, has run the shop alone for 36 years since her adoptive mother's death. Despite rising costs, she finds irreplaceable joy in customer interactions.
Zoshigaya Kishimojin hall, founded over 350 years ago, stands as a peaceful green oasis in central Tokyo, revered for safe childbirth. A short walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Toden Arakawa Line leads to its grounds, where the historic wooden shop Kamikawaguchiya blends seamlessly into the landscape. Established in 1781 during the mid-Edo period as a candy store, it has evolved into a purveyor of dagashi, affordable traditional Japanese snacks.
Masayo Uchiyama, the 85-year-old 13th owner, has managed the shop solo for 36 years following her adoptive mother's death. She began helping around age 10, fondly recalling the thrill of finding broken dagashi to eat as a treat. After working at a Tokyo company, she assumed ownership at her family's urging, marrying at 29 and balancing shop duties with homemaking for five decades.
University researchers determined the building dates to the late Edo period, surviving wartime damage with only repairs to maintain its near-original form. A kneeling service area, created in the Edo era to show deference to feudal lords, adds to its authenticity. Over century-old paulownia wood boxes display plastic cases of nostalgic treats. While Edo-era favorites like chitose stick candy and yuzu candy are unavailable due to deceased artisans, the shop stocks about 80 varieties, including fugashi wheat gluten confections, puffed rice snacks, chocolates, and savory items.
Rising procurement costs pose challenges, yet Uchiyama says, “There’s joy here that you can’t buy with money, like customers greeting me. I want to keep this shop going as long as I live.” Located at 3-15-20 Zoshigaya, Toshima Ward, Tokyo, within the hall. Access: five-minute walk from Zoshigaya Station on Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line; 15 minutes from JR Ikebukuro Station's east exit. Hours: 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., irregular closures.