Chef Michelle Theron has reopened Geuwels at Vergenoegd Löw after renovations, emphasizing South African ingredients and traditions. Food writer Tony Jackman dined solo and praised the honest, stylish presentation of local dishes. The estate's remote Winelands location adds to its unique appeal.
Vergenoegd Löw estate, tucked away near Macassar and False Bay in the Cape Winelands, feels like a hidden gem. Not quite in Stellenbosch proper, it surprises visitors with whitewashed historic buildings and wild vineyards upon arrival. Geuwels restaurant, under new chef Michelle Theron, reopened in mid-December following major renovations.
Jackman arrived for an interview but ended up enjoying a full lunch amid the kitchen's bustle. Theron, known for her commitment to local foods, personally selected dishes to showcase her menu. The dining rooms offer a cool respite with elegant booth seating, woven cane shades, and dark wood accents; a visible meat-aging fridge highlights the focus on quality proteins.
The meal began with a bread course of mosbolletjie and roosterkoek, paired with fynbos, citrus, and seaweed butters from nearby San Gabriel, plus salts including tallow-infused. A canapé followed: roosterkoek topped with carrot escabeche and steamed mussels, praised for its soft texture and perfect seafood. The starter was carpaccio of on-site Dexter cattle sirloin, dressed simply with a curried green bean salad and Parmesan.
For the main, Theron intuited Jackman's preference for the crumbed free-range pork cutlet, served with braised fennel, turnip, sweet grapes, and Cape mountain sage. Dessert was a maas parfait garnished with boerejongens, described as magnificent. Jackman noted the growing trend of South African chefs embracing native ingredients to define Cape Town's culinary identity, moving away from international influences.
Despite the chaos of a busy service, Theron remained humble, even sweeping the floor herself. Jackman paid for the meal, underscoring the review's independence.