Wired reviews Gevi espresso machine as quick but quirky

The Gevi Espresso Machine earns a mixed assessment in a Wired review, praised for its basic performance at a budget price but criticized for chintzy accessories and an erratic steam wand. This single-boiler device handles grinding, shot pulling, and milk steaming adequately for casual users. The review positions it as a suitable gift for acquaintances rather than a premium treat.

The Gevi Espresso Machine, a no-frills single-boiler unit with 15-bar pressure, simplifies home espresso making without advanced features like gauges or digital menus. Reviewer Matt Jancer, a former barista, tested it over three months using medium-roast Columbia Supremo beans from Costco. Assembly is straightforward, though included accessories disappoint: the plastic tamper weighs just 80 grams, far lighter than competitors like the Casabrews 5700PRO's version, prompting immediate replacement suggestions.

The 2.3-liter water tank fills easily without leaks, and the bean hopper stands out with its durable, gasket-sealed lid and clear grind size guide. Settings range intuitively, with the manual recommending 5 to 10 for espresso; Jancer preferred 3 for consistent results. The grind button dispenses 12 grams for singles and 16 grams for doubles out of the box, but reprogramming doses proves fiddly—requiring timed holds and presses—leading Jancer to abandon it for manual scaling to achieve his 19-gram baseline.

Shots pull reliably at 2 ounces for doubles, yielding a 31-second extraction with rich crema and low bitterness after initial dialing in, which took about five throwaway shots. However, the steam wand poses challenges: its three-position dial activates erratically, taking 10 to 35 seconds to dispense hot steam after a blinking light signal. Frothing 5 ounces of 45-degree-Fahrenheit whole milk to 140 degrees with light texture averages 56 seconds, aided by the wand's pliable motion and easy-to-clean tip.

Post-steaming, excess water collects in an easily removable drip pan. Descaling follows manual button sequences. Jancer appreciates the machine's simplicity, reminiscent of commercial setups, calling bad shots the user's fault fixable by tweaks. At its price, it ranks as a step above bottom-shelf options, ideal for casual or gifting use despite plastic build and steam inconsistencies.

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