Maison Margiela stages first show outside Paris in Shanghai

Maison Margiela is holding its first fashion show outside Paris on Wednesday in Shanghai, marking a major push into China. CEO Gaetano Sciuto described the country as the brand's temporary headquarters, ahead of the event mixing ready-to-wear and Artisanal collections. The move accompanies four exhibitions across Chinese cities showcasing the house's history and philosophy.

Shanghai buzzes with preparations for Maison Margiela's landmark show on Wednesday, the first since 1988 to leave Paris. CEO Gaetano Sciuto, speaking from the Lafayette Arts & Design Center rooftop, said, “For the next few weeks, my feeling is that our HQ isn’t in Paris anymore: it’s right here in China.” Creative director Glenn Martens added, “We are here to show what we do and who we are, and to set a foundation.” The presentation will feature Martens’s latest ready-to-wear alongside new Artisanal looks during Shanghai fashion week's final day. Sciuto and Martens are overseeing four exhibitions over the next two weeks. The first opens Friday on Yandang Road in Shanghai’s Huangpu District, displaying 58 original Artisanal pieces, mostly from founder Martin Margiela’s archive, with contributions from Martens and predecessor John Galliano. Others include a mask-focused anonymity show at Beijing’s Zhengyici Peking Opera Theatre, a fully booked Tabi shoe exhibit in Chengdu, and a Bianchetto leather display in Shenzhen. Sciuto emphasized, “It’s about creating a real conversation with the people here... to share our attitude and our values.” This China initiative follows Sciuto’s 2023 arrival and leadership changes, including Galliano’s January 2024 Artisanal show and exit, Martens’s appointment, and collections in 2025. The brand released 'Margiela Folders' digitally for transparency into its processes. Entering China in 2019 with 26 stores mainly driven by perfumes, Margiela saw 9% revenue growth last year, with China offering untapped potential. OTB Group chair Renzo Rosso, who approved the costly project, arrives in Shanghai today; three exhibitions are already fully subscribed. Margiela plans a return to Paris Haute Couture in January 2027, balancing growth with its unconventional roots.

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