Kamakura's historic farmers' market sells Showa-era charm and fresh produce

In the heart of Kamakura, Kanagawa Prefecture, the Kamakura City Agricultural Cooperative Union Sales Stand evokes nostalgia from the Showa era (1926-89) while offering fresh local vegetables directly from producers. Known as a pioneer of European-style farmers' markets in Japan and affectionately called “renbai” by locals, it features produce from about 20 farming households. These farmers rotate in groups to staff the modest, weathered stand bustling with tourists.

Nestled at 1-13-10 Komachi in Kamakura, the stand features an aging corrugated metal roof and faded hand-painted signs, drawing both domestic and international tourists to the vibrant city. Its origins trace back to 1928, inspired by a foreign missionary who suggested to farmers selling from oxcarts and handcarts that they adopt permanent European-style market sites like those abroad. This is the third location, and it includes farmers from Yokohama's Sakae Ward Nagaodaicho district, which was once part of the Kamakura area before annexation.

The market emphasizes the Kamakura Yasai brand, with small-batch production of diverse crops. In winter, daikon radishes steal the show in varieties like koushin (red-core), aonaga (green), and purple types, creating a colorful display that appeals to visitors. Hiromi Suzuki, 69, shared tips with a female customer on preparing raw “oomasari” peanuts: “Boil them in heavily salted water for 30 minutes. They can also be frozen for later, and taste better if you go a bit heavy on the salt.”

The charm lies in chatting directly with growers while selecting produce. Early mornings see professionals from the restaurant trade arriving before prices are set. Joji Somura, who runs a French restaurant in Tokyo's Kiba district, stocked up on leeks and lettuce, saying, “The selection of fresh, seasonal produce here is outstanding. There’s a vibrant seasonal energy here that you just don’t find in Tokyo’s wholesale markets.”

Kaneo Yamamori, 70, who grows about 120 vegetable varieties, tended to customers while reflecting: “Since this is a tourist area, people look for vibrant, eye-catching produce, which eventually became our hallmark. It was really the conversations with our customers that nurtured the growth of the Kamakura Yasai brand.” Sales begin around 8 a.m., with closures from January 1 to 4, and it's a three-minute walk from the east exit of JR Kamakura Station.

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