Daniel Sahagoff discusses challenges of Brazilian gastronomy abroad

Daniel Sahagoff, owner of the Cantaloup and Loup restaurants in São Paulo, shares the secrets to keeping a brand relevant for nearly three decades and the hurdles of expanding to Portugal. In an interview with Veja, he highlights the positive moment for Brazilian chefs in international guides and festivals, but warns of business challenges like licenses and investments in foreign currency. The expansion includes a new unit in a São Paulo hospital and another in Portugal, drawn by growing tourism.

The Cantaloup, located in Itaim in São Paulo, is nearing three decades as one of the city's most prestigious addresses. Conceived by Daniel Sahagoff, the restaurant pioneered innovations in gastronomy, service, and ambiance, raising standards in the paulistano circuit. Sahagoff also owns the Loup, which joined the Michelin Guide for 2024/25. Recently, the group opened a unit in the Albert Einstein hospital in mid-September 2024 and plans another in Portugal.

Asked about the secret to keeping a venue relevant for so long, Sahagoff stresses: "Being present, as clients and the team feel the attention; experimenting and correcting dishes; monitoring costs; avoiding waste; overseeing purchases to ensure prices and quality; running periodic actions to stay memorable: ensuring good cost/benefit; checking competition; reviewing concepts and always moving, with updates."

Operating inside a hospital brings unique challenges. "We are audited monthly by Einstein and must achieve 95% approval, meaning nothing can go wrong in operations," he explains. Additionally, there is a need for greater attention to clients in stressful moments and adaptation to the hospital's strict regulations.

The expansion to Portugal is driven by the tourist market. The country welcomed 32 million tourists last year, with growth expected. Sahagoff values the safety, nighttime activity, and presence of Brazilian expats in Lisbon and Cascais, many of whom already know the brand. The Portuguese have warmly received the pre-opening project, offering advice and support in promotion.

On Brazilian gastronomy abroad, Sahagoff notes a positive moment for chefs in guides, festivals, and exchanges. However, for businesses, there are barriers: "difficulties with approvals and licenses, works and deadlines, heavy investment in foreign currency, and labor shortage."

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