Renowned sushi chef Jiro Ono marked his 100th birthday on October 27, reflecting on a life devoted to his craft. The legendary figure behind Sukiyabashi Jiro in Ginza shows no signs of slowing down. He shares insights into his techniques and philosophy.
Born in Shizuoka Prefecture in 1925, Jiro Ono moved to Tokyo at age 25 and began his journey as a sushi chef. In 1965, at 39, he opened Sukiyabashi Jiro in Tokyo's Ginza district, where he has stood behind the counter handcrafting sushi for nearly 75 years. 'The years have flown by,' Ono said. 'I love sushi, so I've tried to keep improving my skills little by little. Customers praise me when I serve them something a little different.'
His restaurant has held three Michelin stars in the Tokyo Guide for 12 consecutive years since 2008. Ono gained international fame through a documentary by a U.S. director. In 2014, then-Prime Minister Shinzo Abe and U.S. President Barack Obama dined there together. He was named a contemporary master craftsman in 2005 and received the Medal with Yellow Ribbon in 2014.
Ono's approach to sushi has stayed consistent. 'How can I make my sushi taste even better?' he asks himself for inspiration. For his signature octopus sushi, he massages it for about an hour to tenderize the fibers. 'I massage the octopus for about an hour before using it,' Ono explained. French chef Joel Robuchon, a friend who visited multiple times, praised it despite disliking octopus generally.
Ono is meticulous about temperatures: silver-skinned fish served chilled, clams and conger eel at room temperature, and Japanese tiger shrimp warm. He warms vinegared rice to body temperature, shaping it firm outside and soft inside. 'When I was thinking about how to make sushi more delicious, I felt having it at body temperature was the best by far,' he said.
For abalone, he boils it in water and sake to soften it. Nori seaweed for rolls is grilled over charcoal to enhance umami and aroma. 'I don't think many other sushi restaurants do this,' Ono noted. These methods, detailed in a 1997 book about his restaurant, have influenced other chefs and establishments.
Since last spring, Ono, now 100, has not visited daily; his 66-year-old son Yoshikazu handles most duties. Ono still prepares sushi for regulars. 'It's amazing that my father came up with so many ideas as he sought to make sushi even more delicious,' Yoshikazu said. 'He has stuck rigidly to his policy of serving only sushi that he thinks tastes good. He said, "If you're going to do something, aim to reach the top level." He never settled for second-best.'
Proud of his career, Ono stated, 'I've tried everything I can, and I have no regrets.' Aiming to live to 114 like Japan's oldest person, he encourages workers: 'If you diligently do your job, age becomes just a number. My peak came when I was about 60. If you set your mind to it, you can do anything.'