Vogue Business shadowed leading PR agencies during Fall/Winter 2026 fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris to examine the modern role of fashion publicists. Agencies like Karla Otto, KCD, and DH-PR manage seating, celebrities, and crises amid shifting metrics and global instability. The work blends meticulous planning with adaptability to data-driven evaluations and cultural relevance.
During the Fall/Winter 2026 fashion weeks, PR agencies handled high-stakes logistics across four cities. Teams from KCD, Karla Otto, Purple, Lucien Pagès, DH-PR, Beside Communications, and Reference Studios coordinated front-row seats, celebrity dressing, press access, and events for brands including Valentino, Jil Sander, Ferragamo, Blumarine, and Stone Island. Karla Otto, with 14 offices on four continents, represented several top labels, as noted by chief business officer Lissy Von Schwarzkopf: “You set yourself a nice challenge doing this story and catching everybody at the busiest time.” CEO Alexander Werz emphasized discretion: “We usually like to be discreet and be behind the scenes. It’s about the client being seen, and us doing the work.” Karla Otto chief business officer Lissy Von Schwarzkopf remarked on the timing, while CEO Alexander Werz stressed staying behind the scenes. DH-PR founder Daisy Hoppen described pre-show walk-throughs for Raw Mango at London Fashion Week, noting, “Every season, no matter how much you plan, there are always last-minute changes down to the wire.” Agency director Marion Abramov added, “Talent changes, life happens, people’s children get colds.” Lucien Pagès recounted a celebrity delaying a show by refusing to exit the car, forcing a start after 30-45 minutes to avoid guest dissatisfaction. Success metrics have shifted from instinct to key performance indicators like earned media value (EMV), measured by tools such as Launchmetrics. Pagès, who founded his agency in 2006, said earlier evaluations relied on “feedback and feelings,” but now data quantifies social engagement, though he cautioned it can favor quantity over quality or involve fake followers. Reference Studios founder Mumi Haiati highlighted cultural participation: “PR is still about coverage, but increasingly it’s about understanding how brands can participate meaningfully in culture.” Beside Communications founder Valerio Innello advocated long-term relevance via trade publications. Crises persist, from stolen seats and reversed venue maps to weather disruptions like Hurricane Sandy in 2012 or high winds at a Tom Ford show. KCD CEO Rachna Shah recalled evacuating a structure pre-show. Geopolitical events, including Middle East tensions during Paris Fashion Week, require measured responses, as Hoppen advised: pause and review before acting. Amid luxury slowdowns and retailer collapses like Saks and Matches, PRs urge creative activations despite tight budgets. Smaller agencies like David Siwicki’s focus on accessible events for emerging brands such as Hodakova.
