Chef Akinori Tanigawa, head at KIGO in Dubai, discusses his journey from Japanese kitchens to international roles. Drawing on years of experience, he offers tips for home cooks and reveals the challenges of preserving traditional flavors. He also provides a recipe for niku dofu, a braised tofu dish with beef or chicken.
Born in Fukuoka, Japan, Akinori Tanigawa started his career in Osaka as a kappo chef, where guests observe cooking at the counter. He later returned to Fukuoka to run his family's restaurant, serving as a kaiseki chef for more than 13 years, specializing in multi-course seasonal meals. Tanigawa then spent five years in Indiana, United States, as head chef of a kaiseki restaurant, adapting the refined Japanese style for global diners.
In 2024, he became head chef at KIGO in Four Seasons Hotel Dubai DIFC. Reflecting on early errors, Tanigawa said, "In the early days I treated that kitchen knife like just another tool—nothing special. I didn’t respect its power or precision, and it showed." For amateurs, he advises, "Don’t let recipes box you in. Numbers on a page are only a guide, not a rulebook." He praises high-quality natural salt as the element that "elevates every ingredient, coaxing moisture, enhancing umami."
Tanigawa values dining harmony, noting that a shouting chef can ruin the experience. His favorites include simple Japanese udon for its clarity and nabe hot pots for family gatherings. Quick home meals often feature eggs or donburi rice bowls. He finds requests to omit ichiban dashi frustrating, as it forms the "soul of Japanese cuisine."
The most challenging dishes for him are dashi-based ones like osuimono clear soup, where "the quality of the water, the freshness of the kombu, and the aroma of the bonito flakes are all immediately apparent." As a leader, he remains calm, emphasizing "dialogue and collaboration."
Tanigawa's niku dofu serves two in about 25 minutes. It uses 200 grams of thinly sliced beef or 300 grams of chicken thigh, one 300-gram block of tofu, and spring onions. The broth combines 450 milliliters water, 6 grams bonito dashi granules, 60 milliliters soy sauce, 60 milliliters mirin, 24 grams sugar, and 12 milliliters tamari. Tofu simmers first for 10 minutes, then meat is added briefly. Variations include adding vegetables or serving sukiyaki-style with raw egg, followed by udon in the broth. His tip: Let tofu absorb flavors before adding meat for refinement.