Traditional dry cleaning relies on perchloroethylene (PERC), a toxic solvent now facing phase-outs in several U.S. states. California completed its PERC ban in dry cleaning facilities in 2023, prompting a shift toward safer alternatives like professional wet cleaning and liquid CO2 methods. These changes aim to reduce environmental harm while effectively cleaning delicate garments.
Dry cleaning, often labeled as essential for suits, silks, and wools, traditionally uses PERC, a chemical solvent known since the 1970s for its dangers. The Environmental Protection Agency has banned PERC machines from residential buildings and evaluated it under the Frank R. Lautenberg Chemical Safety for the 21st Century Act. PERC is classified as a reproductive and neurotoxicant, a potential human carcinogen on California’s Proposition 65 list since 1988, and a persistent pollutant that volatilizes into air and contaminates groundwater. Exposure risks include liver and kidney damage, respiratory issues, reduced fertility, and spontaneous abortions.
States are acting decisively: California phased out PERC in 2023, with New Jersey, Illinois, and others imposing restrictions. Traditional processes are wasteful, but upgrades like closed-loop systems can cut PERC use by 70%, and distillation recovers up to 90% of solvents. However, experts advocate switching entirely to non-toxic options.
Professional wet cleaning stands out as the safest and most energy-efficient alternative, using water with biodegradable soaps in computer-controlled machines that adjust for fabric type, spinning as slowly as six revolutions per minute. Peter Sinsheimer, who led a key study on wet cleaning, stated, “Wet cleaning can clean leather, wool, silk, and suits. And it doesn’t shrink clothes. Dry cleaners can damage leather. Wet cleaning doesn’t. What can be successfully wet cleaned is higher than the percentage of what can be dry cleaned.” In San Francisco, switching 10 cleaners to wet methods yields 38,334 pounds of CO2 reductions annually, saves 2,023.8 pounds of volatile organic compounds, and cuts water and energy use compared to PERC.
Liquid CO2 cleaning, using recycled by-product CO2, is nontoxic and non-smog-forming but limited by high equipment costs, though it reduces long-term disposal expenses. Consumers should scrutinize “green” claims: GreenEarth’s siloxane involves chlorine and potential cancer risks, while some “organic” solvents derive from petroleum and may contain benzene.
At home, many “dry clean only” items can be hand-washed—silk cold and flat-dried, wool on delicate cycles—distinguishing recommendations from strict necessities. To find certified cleaners, consult Green America’s directories, EPA Safer Choice labels, or lists from San Francisco’s Environment Department and Wet Cleaners USA. Reducing overall dry cleaning through airing, spot cleaning, steaming, and choosing washable fabrics further supports sustainability. Ongoing research into enzymes and surfactants promises even greener innovations.