Despite longstanding complaints about their length and cost, tasting menus remain a staple in high-end restaurants. Critics argue the format prioritizes chef control over diner enjoyment, yet it persists due to business benefits and award allure. Recent analyses highlight a shift in diner preferences toward more casual options.
The tasting menu, a format born in the 1960s from Japanese kaiseki and French nouvelle cuisine, typically features at least four small courses where chefs exert significant control over the dining experience. By the 1990s, chefs like Thomas Keller at French Laundry and Ferran Adrià at El Bulli extended it into hours-long affairs, inspiring widespread adoption.
Complaints have echoed for decades. In 1998, Ruth Reichl described slogging through courses until dreading dessert. Pete Wells in 2012 called the spread of expensive tasting-menu-only spots an "epidemic." Corby Kummer noted in 2013 that a diner's pleasure is secondary. More recently, in 2021, Geraldine DeRuiter critiqued a Michelin-starred meal as if crafted by someone unfamiliar with actual dining.
Matthew Schneier recently reviewed New York restaurants Cove and Saga, deeming them "stymied by the worn-out format." Yet, venues like Alinea, Pujol, and Maido, often ranked among the world's best, rely on tasting menus, as do many $150-plus omakases in cities like New York, Houston, and Los Angeles.
From a business angle, the format ensures advance bookings and high spending, aiding slim margins, according to Top Chef winner Danny Garcia. It also allows chefs to express artistry, as Los Angeles Times critic Bill Addison explains: chefs often enter it to showcase their character or control the meal benevolently, not just for accolades.
Awards play a role, though not exclusively. The World's 50 Best list favors tasting menus, while Michelin is mixed—some starred spots like Semma and Crown Shy offer à la carte options. Recent lists from Eater, Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, and Esquire highlight more casual eateries, with few pure tasting-menu restaurants.
The COVID-19 pandemic curbed their growth, and younger diners prefer neighborhood spots, per Garcia. Still, Michelin stars help tasting-menu venues attract customers, as Addison notes. As inequality rises, these meals symbolize indulgence, though affordable versions under $100 are emerging.
